Grateful

After a good surf session, you feel pleased with yourself.   

You take the last wave to go out.  Tired but satisfied, you are thirsty but even that  won't let you stop 

thinking about taking another wave; But your body won't resist for more. 
So you look back, watching the waves to delight your sight,  

to disolve the adrenaline, and ... 

It's hard to say good bye.